2010, Verzenay Grand Cru, 5 Years on lees, practicing organic
This smells like a perfume you’d apply to a Bengal tiger. It’s the best 2010 I’ve tasted anywhere. The ‘10s at the sharpest tip of the iceberg can recall 2004, but there are fewer of them and they’re rather less lavish than the best ‘04s. This has a fetching yet also “important” aroma, fluidly spicy and utter Verzenay; the palate is both linear and aerial yet with a clotted-cream concentration, leading into a superbly animal-smoky finish. Pheasant stock, parsnips, beeswax, Ceylon tea, Timut pepper, black salt on a beef-tallow sautee of morels… OK, babbling, yes. But … this is some wine. Disg. 7/2016, and 80-20 PN-CH.